Georges AUCOC. Large diamond-shaped pendant with lace motif - Lot 96

Georges AUCOC. Large diamond-shaped pendant with lace motif set with old-cut and rose-cut diamonds. Set in platinum (850 thousandths). Marked with an eagle's head and a GA manufacturer with a wolf. Early 20th century. Size without setting: 60 x 56 mm. PB: 26.8 g Deformations including rear plate. Restorations. Stones with chips and glazes. Although rarer in the firm's production, the diamond shape of this pendant is attested to by Aucoc, as evidenced in particular by the catalog of the 1928 sale of the former Louis Aucoc fils and Georges Aucoc establishments at Drouot, which features a platinum and diamond "diamond pendant", or a "triangular pendant made of a band of brilliants" (Liquidation de la Société anonyme des anciens établissements Louis Aucoc fils et Georges Aucoc, Drouot, sales of March 29 and 30, 1928. Aucoc was founded in 1821 by Casimir Aucoc. Louis Aucoc - Georges' father - became its director at the end of the 19th century, establishing the boutique at 6 rue de la Paix in Paris. Under his leadership, the company was awarded the title of "Fournisseur Breveté" by Napoleon III and Queen Victoria as early as 1856. In 1907, Louis Aucoc retired and handed over management to his son Georges Aucoc, who inscribed his hallmark "G.A.", with the passing wolf, on the pendant. Aucoc jewelry seduced French and international high society. The House of Aucoc was particularly popular with the Russian imperial court and Eastern European aristocracy around 1900. From 1881 to 1917, regular customers included Tsar Alexander III (commissioned in 1893), Countess Shuvalov (1911) and Princess Gagarin (1911). In France, Aucoc's clientele may also have included wealthy noble families, as well as personalities from the world of the arts - Georges Aucoc was married to actress Odette Talazac (Revue de la bijouterie, joaillerie, orfèvrerie : publication mensuelle illustrée, September 1, 1900). Around 1900, Paris was the center of haute joaillerie, where Aucoc made its mark alongside Boucheron, Chaumet, Vever and Cartier. The company developed a refined production in the Belle Époque style, marked by the guirlande style, combining lightness, technical virtuosity and elegance of design, as illustrated by this pendant. It also played an important role in the training of artists, having welcomed the young René Lalique as an apprentice between 1874 and 1876. Our thanks to Cécile ALVES CONVERT.